Zur Weinsteige

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Hohenheimer Straße 30, 70184 Stuttgart, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Holger Haag
Cooking: Gastronomic | German | Japanese | Seafood | Vegetarian
Services: Accommodation | Private Parking | Private Room | Terrace
Style: Elegant | Exceptional setting | Romantic | With children | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

But oops: The Stuttgart classic of the Scherle brothers has blossomed vigorously, both visually and in terms of content. Actually, this was an address that would never change and should never change – goose liver variations, roast beef with onions, Württemberg wine. Pure feel-good cuisine under heavy oak wood. All this has remained – and yet completely different: the coffered ceiling hangs only in the form of individual quotes above the tables in the completely renovated restaurant, which is significantly lighter and airier than before. The onion roast is still available in the tried and tested quality, and the 1,600-item wine list with 500 Rieslings from the region is also still in place. The latter, however, now fit a little better with what Jörg Scherle and the long-time sous chef Holger Haag, who has been promoted to co-chef, send out of the kitchen. And that has less to do with zeitgeist (which it still hits) than with Scherle's sideline: Attentive visitors have not missed the terrace ponds with selected beautiful koi, which have always had their place behind the restaurant. Some regulars also know that Jörg Scherle has achieved the highest honours as a koi breeder in Japan, even world championship titles. So why not combine the two passions? Don't worry – there are no grilled carp. But the cuisine of the Weinsteige has been given a strong new Japanese touch. The foie gras is now varied with ponzu, sea buckthorn and Nashi pear, which makes the course just as easy as the oak ceiling. The menu now opens with hamachi tuna with caviar and (a bit of nostalgia is a must) brioche, the sole is served with sea urchin and koshihikari rice, and the black feather chicken is prepared in yakitori style. All this not only seems lighter and more exciting, but also tastes even more intense than the already good cuisine in the curve to Degerloch. Not many restaurants are granted the privilege of successfully reinventing themselves with the same ownership. The Scherle brothers deserve our respect for this - and the menu an additional toque. Chapeau!