100/200

Rating: 18
Author: Gault&Millau

Brandshofer Deich 68, 20539 Hamburg, Germany

18/20
Prestige Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Thomas Imbusch
Cooking: Gastronomic | Local | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Electric charging station | Private Parking | Terrace
Style: Casual | Exceptional setting | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

The location and access to the restaurant are unusual. The 100/200 Kitchen spreads over the third floor of a former warehouse building at the rather rustic Billhafen, accessible only by elevator and after prior binding reservation and payment of the booked menu. Drinks are paid for later. Urban-maritime view from the high guest room of the harbor basin and the emerging Hafencity on its opposite shore. From the left, the ruins of the Elbtower look over, now already a tourist attraction. Also unusual is the first gesture of the service employee, who briefly kidnaps the guest's dusty glasses for cleaning in the ultrasonic bath. A large kitchen island attracts everyone's attention, here the finishing touches are put to the plates, many of the dishes are perfected on the custom-made Molteni stove at 100° or 200° C - which also explains the unusual name of the restaurant. After a wonderful Blanc de Blancs champagne from Leclaire-Thiefaine, the still warm sourdough bread with hazelnuts arrives at the table, accompanied by a large yoghurt butter patty drizzled with rosemary, chives and chilli oil – uncomplicated and at the same time immensely delicious. The "carte blanche" surprise menu, which changes with the seasons, is also offered as a "Auslese" with four courses. It always has a motto. In summer, it's "field and meadow" with vegetarian dishes that don't give up the thought of substitution or renunciation for a moment. In autumn, the focus is on game and crustaceans. In the "stew", chef Thomas Imbusch combines morels, peas, green asparagus, artichoke, chard and leaves of the trumpet mushroom to form an ensemble in which salty, sweet and bitter components combine to create a full-bodied taste experience. Restaurant manager and sommelier Sophie Lehmann presents a characterful, strong organic wine from Provence with a Bandol Rouge from Domaine Gros Noré, which is perfectly suited to the highly aromatic dish. A sourdough brioche with cinnamon and hazelnut filling, announced by the service employee with a wink as a "homage to the Hamburg Franzbrötchen", is given an appropriate culinary upgrade with crème Chantilly and creamy ice cream made from mace blossoms. Thomas Imbusch's kitchen style does not fit into any regional pigeonhole. "Lots of taste" is his motto, and he succeeds in combining balance and dissonance, the familiar and the extraordinary into a culinary experience. Attentive, attentive service. Sophie Lehmann puts together a playlist with suitable background music for the respective menu, which can also be heard on Spotify. Second restaurant GLORIE on a higher level with à la carte offer. In addition, podcast "Brandherd Esskultur" by the Imbusch/Lehmann team on the Internet, which also addresses the dark sides of the culinary scene.