1789

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Tonbachstraße 237, 72270 Baiersbronn, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Florian Stolte
Cooking: Asian | French | Gastronomic | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Accommodation | Electric charging station | Private Parking
Style: Casual | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

Scallops, veal, imperial caviar, langoustines, sea urchins, yellowtail mackerel, lobster, Faroese salmon or Wagyu beef are the focus of our menu at the "1789" in the Hotel Traube Tonbach. The "down-to-earthness" that the restaurant itself takes up is therefore not really recognizable at first glance. In order to bring the classic canon of luxury goods to the plates in a way that is suitable for connoisseurs, chef Florian Stolte also likes to run away and works with Far Eastern flavors. Vinaigrette, broths or sauces are given an Asian taste bud with bonito flakes, curry or dashi, and sometimes seasoned with chili or ginger. The result is an experienced gourmet cuisine that does not try to outgrow itself: All dishes are accessible, uncomplicated and usually ideally balanced in the finely aromatic coordination. Only a slice of turbot cooked to the point in the mangle of spicy red curry broth and crunchy papaya strips (in our opinion a little too courageously seasoned with fish sauce) breaks with the very precise craft, which otherwise does not allow itself to make any mistakes. The palatable, sometimes spicy flavors are accompanied by an extremely accomplished wine selection, here a 2019 Chardonnay from Alten Reben from the Huber winery.