360°

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Bahnhofsplatz 2A, 65549 Limburg an der Lahn, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Alexander Hohlwein
Cooking: European | Gastronomic | International
Services: Electric charging station | Private Parking | Terrace
Style: Elegant | Romantic

Gault&Millau's review 2025

The short, somewhat sobering walk from the train station or from the underground car park to the 360° forms a stark contrast to Alexander Hohlwein's cuisine. Even arriving at the restaurant does not resolve it, the loungy penthouse is more reminiscent of a dance school or a gym. But we don't have to judge that, but the cuisine. For a trip around the world to Limburg? That's what the 6-course menu promises, but it can also be enjoyed in five courses as a road trip or in four courses as a voyage of discovery. No matter which format you choose, the journey begins with "Snacks around the World". This is already formally reminiscent of Kevin Fehling, who stages his cuisine in the restaurant The Table, in keeping with Hamburg, as a "gateway to the world", where Alexander Hohlwein worked as a sous chef. Limburg and the 360° seem less cosmopolitan, but the first bites, including beef tartare rolls, a beguilingly spicy duck pho, a short rib bao or a silky, full-bodied egg custard (chawanmushi) with pork belly prove that the 360° is absolutely sure of taste when it comes to global culinary issues. Hollow wine throws around aromas from all over the world, starts somersaults and pirouettes, but always lands absolutely safely. Nothing lurches, every movement is perfect. The food already conveys a playful lightness, carried by experienced skill. Obviously, a virtuoso aroma artist is at work here. A piece of glassy hake lies in a strong Tom Kha Gai. Aromatically dense, you can't escape this interpretation of a Thai classic. Bergamot provides a sour contrast, the velvety texture of the soup harmonizes with the gentle fish - perfection in a small soup bowl. Strong, drinkable, intense - hollow wine serves a cuisine that inspires with every bite. The dishes have complexity, but allow a very accessible enjoyment that can convince classic gourmets as well as avant-gardists, novices as well as experienced connoisseurs. In addition, hostess Rebekka Weickert serves wines that can compete formidably with the strong dishes, which accompany very well, but also stand for themselves and at very friendly prices. Particularly noteworthy is the very friendly and personal service of the hostess, congenially accompanied on this evening by a young gentleman who will soon finish his training as a chef, but led through the evening so skilfully that one wished award-winning cuisine was accompanied by such serenity everywhere. Insights into this cuisine are available from just under 50 € as a lunch menu. This is always recommended, especially since Limburg is not a trip around the world.