5

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Bolzstraße 8, 70173 Stuttgart, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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Location: Stuttgart
Chef: Alexander Dinter
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | International | Seafood
Style: Bar, Casual, Elegant, Exceptional setting, Romantic, With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

16/20

Remarkable Restaurant

Almost everything is the same at first glance in the cool restaurant between the heavy iron girders of Stuttgart's first train station. Sommelier Dirk Romann has left the house and now Kyrazis Mihaloudis brings a breath of fresh air to the 5 in a youthful and buoyant way, even if he is following in big footsteps. Alexander Dinter still composes complex plates with a stupendous look – but he does not always succeed in getting to the heart of his exuberant creativity in a completely convincing way. In the aperitif and amuse area, everything was in perfect order: the late summer salad with pea, carrot and sour cream ice cream was wonderful, but with the dim sum à la "5", the contours blurred because the exuberant truffle foam took the air out of the quince, hazelnut and chestnut elements to breathe. Even with the cod, which was fried to the point, the good jus based on Meyer lemon struggled with a brandade that filled the aroma space, which meant that the additional accents of peanut and especially chili could hardly unfold their effect. For the main course, a trio of Iberico Bellota (fed with acorns) from thinly sliced back slices that were only fried briefly. On top of that, schmaltzy Iberico lardo, next to it a finely fried praline of leg meat. That alone was interesting and tastefully convincing; Dinter saddled with date, mustard, chicory and a yeast jus, finally infused with a gravy – a clear focus on the taste potential of Iberico would have been enough for us, so it was basically two exciting courses on one plate. In the dessert area, there is a harmonious interpretation of various raspberry elements (a mousse ball with a sweet core, covered with a raspberry glaze) with microelements of rice, thyme and nutmeg. There is no question about it: Alexander Dinter is a master of aromas, textures and contrasts, and eating with him is a pleasure. Only sometimes it is a bit too much of a good thing – and so we wish for more reduction to the essentials, because despite all the constructive criticism (at a high level!), we like the 5 and Alexander Dinter's cuisine very much, the combination of bar (ground floor, all white) and gourmet restaurant (first floor, all black) still looks exciting and inviting even after years. So despite our comments, we are looking forward to the next visit.