Alte Überfahrt

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Fischerstraße 48B, 14542 Werder (Havel), Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Thomas Hübner
Cooking: Gastronomic | Local | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Garden | Private Room | Terrace
Style: Casual | Elegant | Romantic | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

The best way to get there is to come by ferry from Potsdam and dock at the jetty of the Old Crossing. The neo-baroque pearl directly on the shore of the Havel island of Werder can be seen from afar with its proud façade with sandstone-colored pilasters and decorated balustrade. Inside, in the modern dining room decorated in sage green, Thomas Hübner serves a very independent and surprising gourmet cuisine. Two important inspirations are the Petzow Palace Garden, only a few kilometers away, where he helps grow and harvest the vegetables himself, and the 12 years he worked in top addresses in Italy (and southern France at Ducasse). Hübner, born in Berlin, does not cook Italian, but is definitely an Italophile. Vegetables are in the foreground, his cuisine follows the course of nature, the ingredients, including many old and rare varieties, are constantly changing. The best course on our last visit was a foam of stracciatella cheese with homemade carp garum, on a fried oxheart tomato with pickled peach and pumpernickel. Also a treat: the fregola with green zebra tomato and crispy fried Parma ham. On the noble cabbage wrap of Galician cabbage, filled with pumpkin, zucchini and – untypical for Hübner – turbot, he shaves a homemade turbot bottarga. Most of the animal protein comes from local waters and forests. In yoghurt ice cream on a raspberry mirror with rose petals and meringue, pine nuts surprise in taste and texture. The service is provided by Patrick Schwatke, who was once a top chef himself before he started his own business with the Alte Überfahrt. His wine selection ranges from Germany to Italy to France, including biodynamic and spontaneously fermented wines. You can't eat better in Brandenburg at the moment.