Atlantic

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Holzdamm 3, 20099 Hamburg, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Fokke Mick
Cooking: European | French | Gastronomic | German | Japanese | Vegetarian
Services: Accommodation | Electric charging station | Private Room
Style: Bar | Elegant | Romantic | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

Alexander Mayer doesn't have an easy task: The chef, who is influenced by both French (Schiffchen) and Japanese (Nagaya) in Düsseldorf, meets the (website self-promotion) "Grande Dame" of Hamburg's gastronomy in the "Atlantic Restaurant" with a correspondingly senior audience (Udo Lindenberg will also soon be eighty). And so, on the one hand, he serves what regulars expect from the house with its classic grand hotel culture (the staff wears black suits, pocket squares and ties, where else can you find that?): His three-course menu "Retour vers les Avenir" consists of lobster soup, North Sea sole filleted at the table and crêpes suzette – also flambéed at the table. Like a journey into times long past. Fortunately, he doesn't get lost there, because his menu "Identité" is much more modern along with the vegetarian variant "Flora": Here, Mayer obviously shows how he would like to cook – and how, in our opinion, it is quite appropriate even in a classic grand hotel, which is subject to constant change (the Parisian role models as well as the Haerlin diagonally opposite show the way): for example, with the smoked scallop in lukewarm tomato dashi with goat curd and salmon caviar, not only visually a poem. His buttery, voluminous wild-caught zander on tom kha beurre blanc, fried scales and lime zest with green mango chutney also shows in the strong Asian spice what Mayer has brought to the table in terms of thought, sensory and texturalism. We wish him the space and freedom at the Atlantic to continue cultivating and expanding such things – it should be worth it.