Bagatelle

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Zurlaubener Ufer 79, 54292 Treves, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Gerald Schöberl
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | German | Vegetarian
Style: Elegant | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

At the latest on the first warm days of the year, it gets crowded in Zurlauben. This is where walkers and pub goers meet for beer and Riesling, while non-Trier residents are surprised that there is a remarkably good restaurant in this place. Experienced Moselle residents then like to tell the doubters that here, just around the corner from the Bagatelle, the Pfeffermühle once existed, for years the best address in Trier. But Gerald Schöberl goes one better and lets it be known with almost every course that he once worked for Christian Bau - not as an apprentice, but as a sous chef. What we were served in the manageably large, elegantly furnished guest room amazed us with a precision that is not a matter of course even in the area of three-toque restaurants. It started fresh and multi-layered, for example with apple macaron with goose liver mousse or excellent hummus. Crab meat with avocado and cucumber sorbet became an aromatic-spicy delicacy with buttermilk and dill, the foie gras terrine benefited from rhubarb and liver ice cream. The kitchen then focused even more on the product with Pertuis asparagus (served with Bellota ham, grenaille potatoes and nut butter hollandaise). Only the sauerbraten from zander we did not quite understand; the pickling in red wine did not help the fish. Back of salt marsh lamb, on the other hand, was again at the high standard level and showed that Schöberl always pays above-average attention to the side dishes (here Crosne and Krause Glucke!). As "Our Rocher", a fortunately not too sweet delicacy made of chocolate and Piedmontese hazelnuts was served; the quaffable hazelnut-vanilla ice cream alone was worth the visit to Trier. It's nice that they also dare to do something with the wine accompaniment: The 1999 Josephshöfer and the 2013 Savigny-lès-Beaune from Jadot were anything but mainstream wines.