bi:braud

Rating: 14
Author: Gault&Millau

Büchsengasse 20, 89073 Ulm, Germany

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

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Location: Ulm
Chef: Alina Meissner BebroutTim Ostertag
Cooking: Gastronomic | German | International | Local | Vegetarian
Style: Bar, Casual, Exceptional setting, Romantic, With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

14/20

Chef's Restaurant

Alina Meissner-Bebrout is the counterpoint of Ulm's gastronomy. Because it is dominated by Swabian or Mediterranean offerings. Meissner-Bebrouts bi:braud is ... yes, what actually? You could say modern, if this weren't such a trite word. Meissner-Bebrout cooks without limits in her head, but always with a remarkable sense of round aromas and a style that inspires gourmets and is immediately accessible to less food enthusiasts. An art that only a few at this level have mastered. In the romantic ambience of an old butcher's shop, the ludicrously tiny kitchen delivers creative combinations of local products, such as a perfectly cooked piece of char in generously proportioned and wonderfully hearty bacon espuma, which is given an earthy-sour note by an onion and truffle ragout. No less masterful are the vegetable-based desserts, such as a verjus ice cream taler with fermented radicchio, elderberry and amaranth crunch - a wonderfully fresh combination. This goes on for 5 courses, and a vegetarian version is also offered. Both are best accompanied by the natural wine recommendations of sommelier Holger Baier. The service anyway: relaxed, good-humoured, seriously interested in the guest - that's how gastronomy works. All this is reminiscent of the similarly fun "Tulus Lotrek" in Berlin with Max Strohe at the stove and Ilona Scholl in the guest room, both on the plate and at the table. Alina Meissner-Bebrout is just in her early 30s, and yet bi:braud will soon celebrate its 10th anniversary. In view of this age, it will be interesting to see what else is to come. First of all, definitely a brasserie: This spring, the boss opened the "Edda", where French feel-good cuisine is served in a stylish ambience - another counterpoint in Ulm's gastronomy.