Brothers

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Kurfürstenstraße 31, 80801 Munich, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Daniel Bodamer
Cooking: European | French | Gastronomic | International | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Private Parking
Style: Bar | Casual | With children | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

In some respects, the Brothers is an unmistakable concept. Small with an open kitchen, cooking at a high level, but not aloof. In Munich, the restaurant, which was shaped by the brothers Markus and Tobias Klaas and chef Daniel Bodamer, has thus found a gap. By the way, the guest has to decide several times here. The first time is when making a reservation, when he has to indicate where he would like to sit: at a table in the guest room or at the bar. He is asked later what he wants to eat, and again a decision has to be made. The menu or just a small selection à la carte? But maybe it can also be an extra to the menu? But with us, yes. The buckwheat galette in front, into which crab meat had found its way in, already showed the style of the kitchen. The cooking here is quite fine and elegant, but also gripping and powerful. We didn't notice it yet with the mild lake trout with asparagus and kosho, but all the more so with the Ligurian trofie, a rarely available pasta genre, which came up with expressive bean cassoulet. The fact that asparagus came again, this time greener from Provence, was not a sign of redundancy, but an expression of seasonality. The scallop was almost superfluous, however, because the vegetables had enough substance, the salsa verde tasted great, a touch of spiciness supported everything. You have to dare to combine brill and pickled Pomeranian beef and combine it with vin jaune, but the attempt worked. Duck with pointed morels and palatable sauce Albufera was also convincing. Rhubarb as a dessert was a good choice at this time of year; the acidity was nicely cushioned with an ice cream of pecans. As far as the drinks are concerned: The wines recommended by Tobias Klaas, a Brachetto d'Acqui for dessert, were selected in such a way that they enhanced the food and did not play themselves into the foreground.