Cookies Cream

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Behrenstraße 53, 10117 Berlin, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Nicholas Hahn
Cooking: European | Gastronomic | German | International | Local | Vegan | Vegetarian
Services: Garden
Style: Bar | Casual | Elegant | Romantic | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

One of the questions that all those who like to eat very well in Berlin asked themselves last year was this: How will Nicholas Hahn, Stephan Hentschel's successor, do at Cookies Cream? It's not an easy legacy. The vegetarian club restaurant, which you traditionally enter through the bumpy backyard of the Komische Oper in Mitte, was characterized by Hentschel's surprising, idiosyncratic gourmet vegetable cuisine. And has been for 15 years. Staying cool for so long: a huge achievement. After our last visit, we know: Hahn does it quite differently, but very well. He works a little finer and sometimes more tweezers-like. He has no problem with heavily processing the products and also changing them texturally. It's more in the direction of fine dining; many sauces are now poured at the table, and more dishes are vegan. So it's a clear change of direction. And less rock 'n' roll than Hentschel's. He accompanies a grilled navette with olive oil pearls, olive cream and saffron sauce. He served a potato spiral as a ceviche with a leche de tigre made from tomato water, lime and coriander oil. The best course was the zucchini blossom stuffed with a chanterelle ragout, accompanied by a zucchini wrapped in a zebra pattern with white and black tahini and a beurre blanc with an accentuated acidity. A few classics of the restaurant remained, such as the Parmesan dumpling or the onsen egg with seaweed caviar, both of which can be ordered à la carte. In terms of drinks, the range of non-alcoholic accompaniments has been expanded.