Der Butt

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Ostmole, 18119 Rostock, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

1 PHOTOS

Chef: André Münch
Cooking: French | Gastronomic
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Accommodation | Electric charging station | Private Parking | Private Room | Terrace
Style: Romantic

Gault&Millau's review 2025

The ambience is special – well hidden in the marina residence, an immensely large hotel complex. From the glazed upper floor, you can see equally immense yachts and furnishings of yesterday's nobility. The menu also sounds a bit like good old haute cuisine: foie gras, egg Benedict with caviar... The prices, however, are very contemporary, and, as you soon realize, rightly so. André Münch, the chef, cooks here for guests who know what's good, but like to stick to the tried and tested. Most of his plates work according to the principle of a triad: three main ingredients that are very different in taste and texture, but merge into harmony on the palate. It starts with a somewhat tentatively spiced parfait of foie gras, followed by a blue shrimp tartare and an apple-elderberry jelly – a refreshing surf 'n' turf that goes even better together with a glass of Alsatian Riesling. In the slices of very good turbot, a thin slice of calf's head and two kinds of grapefruit complement the pearls and hollandaise. These are the bolder combinations; for the meat courses, Münch is accompanied in the classic way, first with a pigeon and quail pâté with chanterelles and a hint of apricot, then with saddle of venison, cherries, a pepper sauce and nothing else at all. And yet this is the strongest course, because the excellent game from our own hunt comes into its own – and because, as on the other plates, the balance and craftsmanship are right. One more tip: Here you can find some extras from amuse-bouche to chocolates. If you haven't spent the day sailing on the Baltic Sea, you are well catered for with one of the smaller menus. It's also worth taking a look at the wine list. In keeping with the cuisine, it is quite classic with strengths in France, but above all with very reasonable prices for the Grands Crus. The clientele for such bottles has dwindled here in recent years, the host Thomas Heimann let us know.