Der Zauberlehrling

Rating: 14
Author: Gault&Millau

Rosenstraße 38, 70182 Stuttgart, Germany

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Fabian Heldmann
Cooking: Asian | French | Gastronomic | German | International | Seafood
Services: Accommodation | Electric charging station | Private Parking
Style: Elegant | Romantic | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

For over thirty years, the Sorcerer's Apprentice has been a Stuttgart institution in the Bohnenviertel. For some time now, Fabian Heldmann, supported by pâtissier Philipp Kortyka, has been the second generation to take over the kitchen magic. However, former patron Axel Heldmann and his wife Karen are still active – be it at the magic potions (recommended: the in-house aperitif), in the neighbouring cooking school or as hosts of the boutique hotel with 13 very individual rooms, which extends over the two old town houses of the ensemble. Gold, aubergine and beige define the modern dining room, spices are served in test tubes, and at least one course is always served in a nitrogen-covered manner. The refreshing towel unfolds by magic and the addition of hot water. All this may be available elsewhere, but the sorcerer's apprentice is made really magical by what Heldmann and Kortyka have served. Precision craftsmanship, elaborately staged plates, small-scale tweezed arrangements and aromatically finely tuned products of the very best quality characterize the cuisine, which rarely relies on contrasts, but skilfully stages a main ingredient with harmonious add-ons from all corners of the world (Heldmann traveled far and wide during his apprenticeship and wandering years). We particularly like this with the fish courses such as the tuna variation at the start or the perfectly confit turbot in Beurre Blanc. The creative dessert around blackberry and lemon verbena and the surprising and outstanding petits fours, for which the visit alone was worth it, are also magical. The wine list is Württemberg-heavy, well curated and fairly priced.