Dobler’s

Rating: 14
Author: Gault&Millau

Rheinhäuser Straße 2A, 68165 Mannheim, Germany

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Eric Schumacher
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | German | Local | Vegetarian
Services: Private Room | Terrace
Style: Casual

Gault&Millau's review 2025

It is gratifying and welcome that a gourmet restaurant in the city is also open at lunchtime and offers an attractive lunch in every respect. So far, so good. If it weren't for the tempting lunch menu with onsen egg and duck foie gras, "lobe de foie gras", wild white halibut and saddle of venison, which is only served in three or four courses for two or more people. Unless you are alone at the table, as the service explained to us, or order the individual courses à la carte. Then it also works with the midday menu. At this point at the latest, we have sorely missed Gabriele Dobler, a grand dame of gastronomy and the good soul of the house, who has been in charge of the service for years in a sovereign and hospitable manner and has been in well-deserved retirement since May. Confused by the possible and impossible variants, we decided in the end on the uncomplicated lunch menu. A good choice. The finely spicy and juicy homemade aspic from the juvenile suckling pig arranges the kitchen with an upbeat, sloppy onion marinade, colorful tomatoes and togarashi mayonnaise with a slight spiciness and a hint of nut aroma. The slices of flank steak from Kansas, USA, were perfectly tender and juicy, and there was some sweet potato puree, shiitake mushrooms and a deep jus, aromatically brought to life with wild Madagascar pepper. The dessert was a respectable composition of plucked cake and almond crumbles on a fine mint cream, the pickled naranjillas provided the sour kick, the mango-passion fruit sorbet for the coolness in the successful dessert. The wine list is as well thought out and well stocked as ever, we would like to see a little more restraint in the constant refilling of water.