Eckert

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Basler Straße 20, 79639 Grenzach-Wyhlen, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Nicolai P. Wiedmer
Cooking: Asian | French | German | International | Vegan | Vegetarian
Services: Accommodation | Electric charging station | Private Parking | Private Room | Terrace
Style: Bar | Casual | With children | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

The young chef of the house, Nicolai Wiedmer, and his team welcome their guests in a relaxed atmosphere, in a casual outfit with open hospitality. In this restaurant, peace reigns in the finest sense. Guests are allowed to arrive before they are asked about aperitifs, water, wine or other drinks. What a luxury. At lunchtime, the properly set tables invite you to put together à la carte dishes from the daily menu into 2-, 3- or 4-course menus with reasonable prices. A taster tasting menu is offered vegan and one with fish and meat. In the evening, the menu opens with two seasonal menu variants. One of them seduces with imaginatively spiced vegetarian dishes. The kitchen sends homemade farmhouse bread, whipped nut and basil butter. Followed by amuse-bouches, which, as expected, are small fragrant temptations like a lukewarm creamy cucumber soup with lettuce, on top of which a nasturtium umbrella is enthroned. Again and again, spicy highlights flash, such as the jalapeños, whose fruity fine spiciness complements the tomato essence, on which the salmon tataki and a hint of kumquat float. The guinea fowl raviolo depicts all the taste highlights of an elegant poultry dish. A hint of acidity, anise and cinnamon spice emphasise the juiciness and the ideal degree of doneness. For the finale, the Maibock sets a piquant beacon in the main course, consisting of first-class game meat on delicately bitter-fresh shiso and a peppery game sauce. Wiedmer knows how to top the lightness of the previous delicacies, sets the radiant final chord and ignites a firework of pleasure with rhubarb and yoghurt dessert in two textures. All in all, a pleasingly consistent further development of the already high level. The wine and drink list put together by sommelier Atlanta Lehmann contains everything your heart desires. In addition to a well-selected spectrum of European wines in different bottle sizes, she concentrates on a considerable selection of sparkling drinks from Sydre to Pet Nat, sparkling wine and champagne. To accompany the menu, she recommends a wine journey by the glass or the smart Ohne Stoff, the non-alcoholic version.