Esplanade

Rating: 18
Author: Gault&Millau

Nauwieserstraße 5, 66111 Saarbrucken, Germany

18/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Silio Del Fabro
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | International | Local | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Accommodation | Electric charging station | Garden | Private Parking | Private Room | Terrace
Style: Bar | Casual | Elegant | Exceptional setting | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

Silio Del Fabro does many things differently than many colleagues. At lunchtime from Wednesday to Saturday, you can get a lunch here at a bargain price, which does not rely on simple products and simple preparation, but already shows all the skills of the kitchen. The à la carte menu, which has long since been abolished elsewhere, is also still available in the Esplanade. You feel reminded of bygone times, not only in the food, but also in the service. Jérôme Pourchère, who, like Del Fabro, worked for Klaus Erfort for a long time, is a maître d'état of the ancient school: he knows the guests, he knows all the finesse of food advice, and of course he also knows the wine list, which is characterized above all by a winegrower's and vintage depth that is unusual even in top German gastronomy. There were almost 30 white wines from Klaus-Peter Keller from Rheinhessen alone during our visit, and around 25 white Burgundy wines from Étienne Sauzet were on the menu; By the glass, however, you can also be seduced and surprised. Speaking of surprises: Classicism is formative for the cuisine of the house, but it is executed in an exciting way. Ponzu with Gillardeau oyster, one of the little things first, veal tartare in pani puri, an Indian snack. Not to forget the home-baked bread with three types of butter (the one with smoked paprika was the most enthusiastic). Marinated vegetables from the city farm with parsley vinaigrette and pumpernickel showed that Del Fabro can handle more than just monkfish, black feather chicken and caviar. Even more impressive than the vegetables, however, was the cannellono of raw marinated swordfish with oxtail jelly and an intense Béarnaise ice cream. Matching the different components of a course in such a way that the rather tender components are complemented by the strong ones, but not overpowered, is a great way for the kitchen. The lukewarm langoustine with tomato nage also convinced with product quality and coordination. But what to take for the main course? Tourte of veal fillet? Suprême of pigeon? It became the sweetbreads, which unfortunately many restaurants do without because only a few guests want to feast on offal. You have to get the sweetbreads right first: crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside, not surprising with asparagus and morels, but extraordinarily precisely matched. Fortunately, a beautifully fruity, deep jus was allocated in abundance. Matthias Spurk, the head pastry chef, who was also previously trained at Erfort, impressed at the end not only with a fresh dessert (rhubarb, buckwheat and buttermilk), but also with classic French sweets à la cannelé. It should also be mentioned that you will not only find a single dessert here, but also a considerable selection, from banana soufflé to champagne dessert with brittle. Something like this doesn't happen often anymore, especially not in this class. A conclusion that can be extended to the entire restaurant.