es:senz

Rating: 19
Author: Gault&Millau

Mietenkamer Straße, 83224 Grassau, Germany

19/20
Exceptional Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Edip Sigl
Cooking: Gastronomic | German | International | Seafood | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Accommodation | Electric charging station | Garden | Private Parking
Style: Bar | Casual | Elegant | Exceptional setting | Romantic | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

To anticipate it: What we enjoyed at Edip Sigl in early autumn 2024 is one of the best that the republic has to offer. In two variants - six courses from Chiemgau pure or eight inspired by a trip around the world in 2012: regional and yet international, grounded and yet creative, comprehensive, incredibly aesthetically presented, texturally and sensorially with a few selected ingredients, competently presented and served in a friendly manner: a long-lasting experience. The Achental in Grassau is a rural Bavarian luxury resort with its own golf course, the complete opposite of a Motel One, so to speak, but belongs to its founding family. And they celebrate everything here that they tend to leave out in their great chain of success: linen-covered tables, rough-hewn wood, black steel and glass, a large window front on a well-kept garden with an Alpine panorama on the one hand, a view of the well-stocked wine cellar with large labels (Petrus, Romanée-Conti) on the other. The waitress introduces herself at the table by name, a very pleasant personal gesture – and then accompanied by colleagues through the entire evening. Our Chiemgau tour "around the world" begins with a pungent, acrid smell of oil – something seems to have gone wrong in the kitchen or the ventilation has failed. But this is quickly covered up in the most pleasant way by the following cloud of aromas. Which can be taken literally, because Edip Sigl has always had "Die Wolke" served: airy and fluffy composed of vinegar, root bacon and breadcrumbs, it is only a small part of the appetizer fireworks, in which a melty duck liver mousse with cherry glaze in a perfect cherry shape on a truffle slice and crispy bread chip gives a foretaste of what awaits the guest in terms of craftsmanship and sensory perfection – even the stem of the "cherry" consists of a wafer-thin truffle zest. A citrusy-bitter tartlet with Arctic shrimp and a bonsai herb garden in noma style, plus an ultra-light macaron with whitefish tartare, fennel and sour cream lead over to the bread course that truly deserves the name: warm potato bread and a mighty brioche are presented with whipped alpine salt butter, pumpkin dust and a cast mustard vinaigrette, an almost emblematic combination of substance and freshness that accompanies the evening. But that's not all: cornelian cherries pickled in brine and olive oil are served in olive oil and finally a Chiemgau herb garden on herb cream, which would otherwise represent a complete and dignified course of its own. All this is enchantingly staged in early autumn and served competently. Then come the – you read that right – amuse-bouches: a slice of tomatoes with wild garlic buds and cream cheese is poured with a decoction of Chardonnay vinegar, which, like all sauces, remains at the table for refilling. This is followed by a fillet of brown trout with radish, jellied lemon verbena and hemp seeds roasted with anise for the crunch. Another classic of the house is the roast chicken: The crispy slice is served on a branch, completely covered with N25 caviar and the finest Périgord truffle. In addition, there is a small rooster à part formed from frying fat, which is infused with chicken essence. If it were already over at this point: We would go home quite satisfied. But that's where it really starts with the first course of the menu, which expands to a good 20 taste samples with amuses, greetings, intermediate courses, extra plates and the patisserie, always served generously and worth every cent of the 325 euros called for it, no, more than that: Because actually the impressions of the evening are actually priceless. Our menu starts with three slices of the best quality Hamachi, generously topped with N25 caviar and homemade ponzu on a watermelon slice, poured with leek oil. The flamed langostino with chicken skin chips, green almond and kaffir lime beurre blanc and separately served tail meat in crustacean bisque is also remarkably good. The grilled Poltinger lamb convinced with a crust quartered to square millimeters, cracking with smoky aromas bursting with smoke aromas and a layer of fat underneath, the meat firm and juicy pink: There is no better way to prepare a lamb, accompanied by a ratatouille julienne braised jube with Sigl's spicy-creamy interpretation of a Frankfurt green sauce, sweet potatoes and twice à part sour-cold tongue[?] alat and a lamb köfte on wafer-thin flatbread, a small reminiscence of Sigl's birthplace. The real star of the evening, however, was a small plate: the quartered, tiny flower head of the jambú, also known as the "Szechuan button", served pure and à part for refreshment in between: a slightly numbing chewing experience that lasted for minutes on the tongue, deglazed with a yuzu lemon granité infused with champagne with pickled lemon zest. Terrific. It should only be mentioned briefly here that the patisserie is not inferior to all this, and that even the extensive petits fours are served with two sauces, you can almost guess. In short: The fact that good food can make you happy is hardly proven more beautifully than by Edip Sigl and his team in the kitchen and service. Chapeau!