etz Restaurant

Rating: 18
Author: Gault&Millau

Wiesentalstraße 40, 90419 Nuremberg, Germany

18/20
Prestige Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Felix Schneider
Cooking: Gastronomic | Local | Vegetarian
Services: Electric charging station | Garden
Style: Bar | Elegant | Romantic | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

We would very much like more restaurateurs to explore the infinite richness of our regional flora and fauna in order to celebrate it as sustainably as in etz. Of course, you don't necessarily have to show the depth of processing (90% of the products are ultimately homemade, from butter to cheese to charcuterie – nose-to-tail as a general idea fixe), but there is infinite creativity in the limitation. Word has spread nationally and internationally – it's really hard to find comparable concepts on the map besides the noma. You work four days a week and open the doors for three services – that's good for the team spirit and continuity that is essential in such a knowledge-intensive concept. The approach can be explained as an example on a spectacled sheep – Schneider buys the animal whole and develops the best possible form of preparation for each part in meticulous detail – so you can meet him as a sheep loaf in the "Kniekiechle", a lard pastry based on sourdough borrowed from Shrovetide, as a minced lamb belly as an accompaniment to the (of course specially made) formidable silken tofu with chilies, herbs and matured green pea shoyu. In the main course, we were thrilled by the back and a piece of the leg with tomato vinaigrette and small artichokes. Each preparation is independent in its own right and yet there is a common thread running through the menu, without the thoughts of repetition that are so hated in the usual top gastronomy – it has to be contemporary and sustainable and is also immensely interesting – what a nice alternative to scallops, lobster & Co. The Mangalitza woolly pig is also used holistically in the charcuterie and as a sensational Mangalitza "Tonnato" with sturgeon mayonnaise, caviar (of course from Franconian breeding), basil and dandelion capers. The menu flows and develops its very own dynamic, perfectly crowned by a (of course) very independent patisserie - the most aromatic corn apple meets shiso ice cream, linseed, lime blossom caramel and Mieze-Schindler strawberries glazed in sweet chestnut honey, harmonize ingeniously with a fennel green ice cream and sheep's yoghurt. We are sure that Felix Schneider and his team, well supported by the knowledgeable and experienced sommelier Daniel "Schorsch" Raptis and his carefully curated sparkling wine and wine list, can still rise to higher consecrations. We are excited about the further development, in the meantime the team seems to have arrived in the new premises. Only a little more emotionality could be transported, then the spark would jump even more and you would have less of the impression of an intellectual contemplation. Intellectuality can also be great fun. But that's criticism in the third decimal place - and all in all a great praise.