Friedrich Franz

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Professor-Dr.-Vogel-Straße 5, 18209 Bad Doberan, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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Location: Bad Doberan
Chef: Ronny Siewert
Cooking: French | Gastronomic
Services: Access for people with disabilities, Accommodation, Electric charging station, Private Parking
Style: Bar, Elegant, Romantic, With family, With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

16/20

Remarkable Restaurant

Ronny Siewert will come of age in 2025 as far as his time of service at the Friedrich Franz is concerned, as will sommelier and host Norman Rex. Well rehearsed, the two and their team celebrate the great French opera for up to 26 guests in the historic Kurhaus of the extensive complex, known from the G20 summits, without seeming boring or dusty. After years of apprenticeship with Heinz Winkler, Dieter Müller and Helmut Thieltges, Siewert has never deviated even a hand's breadth from the classic path of virtue and always brings the best ingredients and the finest sauces into a filigree-artistic, visually convincing presentation that is in no way inferior to the stylishly noble interior (finely painted silk wallpaper, silverware, chandeliers, large windows overlooking the sea). But what the professionally charming service team brings to the tables does not only look good. A sensitive play with sweetness and acidity, freshness and lightness can be found not only in the Heligoland lobster, whose sweetness is enhanced by a crustacean sablé and subtly contrasted by an orange vinaigrette, but runs through the entire menu, which is structured like a still life of classic French cuisine: caviar at the start, then truffled foie gras, lobster, loup de mer with a ravishing bouillabaisse and saffron velouté, feather and cheek terrine of Iberico acorn-fed pig, strawberry variations for dessert. Magnifique, one would like to exclaim after each course, but that would hardly fit in with the noble atmosphere of the house (but it should certainly happen after a few bottles from Norman Rex's richly stocked cellar). Kitchen, service, location: A sovereign work of art for friends of the old, the true, the beautiful – but definitely in the here and now.