garbo zum Löwen

Rating: 14
Author: Gault&Millau

Hauptstraße 51, 76344 Eggenstein-Leopoldshafen, Germany

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

BOOK

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Marcel Kazda
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | German | International | Local | Mediterranean | Seafood
Services: Accommodation | Private Parking | Terrace
Style: Elegant | Exceptional setting | Romantic | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

Marcel Kazda cooks big at the Eggensteiner Löwen in the borderland of Baden and the Palatinate. In the traditional Löwen house (hotel accommodation is strongly recommended in view of Philipp Spielmann's convincing offers for "supervised drinking"), two four- to seven-course menus (one classic Baden, the other more modern and partly experimental, but always on a solid kitchen foundation), à la carte (always included with the Wiener Schnitzel in a proud format at a high price, but also of the very best meat quality) and the whole thing at lunchtime (good business lunch!) and in the evening, plus event gastronomy: The program that the team around Kazda and owner Dorrit Gulden imposes on themselves is awe-inspiring. And masters it confidently. Because what is served on the table is worthy of all honour, strongly composed with aromas and the enhancement of the toque colour: Schlotzig the Eggensteiner onsen country egg with melted calf's head and octopus in nut butter foam, solid, but not suffocating, truffled. Spicy-juicy-sweet is the country pork belly with black pudding, lardo and caramel apple, perfectly fried the sea bass (slaughtered according to Ike Jime's method and of the best quality) in a mussel chorizo broth. Cheese from Waltmann, a nougat dessert: Kazda has said goodbye to the formerly cultivated approach of low-carb cuisine with relish, but the lightness with quite powerful ingredients has remained. Keep it up!