Golvet

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Potsdamer Straße 58, 10785 Berlin, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Nicholas Hahn
Cooking: Gastronomic | International | Local | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Garden | Terrace
Style: Bar | Casual | Exceptional setting | Romantic | With children | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

The Golvet is one of those restaurants where the view alone is a pleasure. From the 8th floor you can look out over the Neue Nationalgalerie, the Philharmonie, the State Library, the Tiergarten, the built-up Potsdamer Platz, sightseeing while sitting. But the real attraction in the spacious restaurant, which was once a club, is what Jonas Zörner and his team conjure up on the plates in the open kitchen. Zörner is more of a quiet guy in the Berlin scene, a tinkerer. Over the years, he has managed to develop a signature style without much fanfare and sky-storming concepts. Technically, he cooks very accurately, but not unnecessarily complicated, he finds his inspirations all over the world. For example, in Norway. From the island of Frøya, he imported a fantastic langoustine from the cold fjord water. He roasts it in the pan until slightly translucent and with a perfect crunch, accompanied by an intense crustacean bisque, a ham from dry-aged Wagyu entrecôte, and, as a small break with the classic, a Thai basil oil and leche de tigre. A kind of double regional sushi, the young Müritz eel is braised in cider and apple juice and wrapped in a nori ge, on top of which parsnip julienne wrapped with a slice of smoked eel. A silky sauce Choron with tomato powder add melting and umami. With the courage to force, the great main course. A well-marbled back piece of salt marsh lamb with a lush layer of fat, which is finely chased and flamed, plus a caramel jus, pickled miracle garlic buds, chanterelles, lemon zest and lamb's lettuce. On the drinks menu, you can rediscover the preferences of sommeliers who have long since emigrated from a wine archaeology. Some natural wine luminaries can still be found there from the early days, plus a few exotics from overseas. Andrea Agosta is currently taking care of the cellar. He focuses more on classic dishes - he also has a France-heavy premium accompaniment with matured wines on offer. The fact that the ventilation in the preparation kitchen went on strike and you could smell the lamb jus in the elevator to the 8th floor, that the asparagus was lying on the plancha for a tad too long in the front – is a gift. Zörner and his team can look forward to one more toque this year.