Gourmetrestaurant Dichter

Rating: 18
Author: Gault&Millau

Aribostraße 19, 83700 Rottach-Egern, Germany

18/20
Prestige Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Thomas Kellermann
Cooking: European | Gastronomic | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Accommodation | Electric charging station | Private Parking | Private Room
Style: Casual | Elegant | Romantic | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

Since the changes in the competition two streets away, Thomas Kellermann has for the time being become the culinary top dog in Rottach-Egern on the beautiful Tegernsee. There is no lake view in his branch at the Parkhotel Egerner Höfe, a company of the Ehrmann dairy dynasty, but the view of the wild Mangfall mountains promises almost contemplative peace. A relaxed attitude also characterises the team of the restaurant under the management of Marianne Wiedemann, which resides in a conservatory-like pavilion. The warm staff makes you feel pleasantly unpretentious and can choose freely from a menu sequence comprising a maximum of nine items - a minimum of five courses. In addition, head sommelier Tobias Blaha serves many common dishes as well as rarities in considerable vintage depth from the wine list, which is extremely fairly calculated for a restaurant in this category. Sovereign serenity also characterises the style of Thomas Kellermann, whose time with Hans Haas in Munich's "Tantris" is clearly noticeable. Kellermann's style is classic and firmly anchored on European soil with exotic danglings such as a spicy mace essence with the down-to-earth Tegernsee char tartare. He always focuses on an excellent product, such as a wild-caught langostino cooked to perfection in Denmark with sensational tarragon sauce or a glassy steamed piece of mackerel fillet as an insert of a no-frills bouillabaisse, which helped the underestimated fish to gain new honour. This is joined by declensions of mostly vegetable side dishes in different textures and aggregate states. Saddle of venison in a Szechwan pepper crust as a main course is to be expected in a wild country like Bavaria, but you rarely find the meat so perfectly fried - uniformly pink and without a drop of meat juice escaping that could have bothered the not overconcentrated sauce. With so much technical perfection, the uninspired kitchen greetings were quickly forgotten, as were the extremely manageable dessert variations, which were hardly distinguishable from the petits fours served with espresso. As a kicker during our visit, there was a chocolate ball filled with liquid cocoa on a bed of peppermint granité. Even if you avoid industrially produced After Eight bars, the combination of mint and chocolate is irresistible. Was this an ironic reference to Rottach-Egern, stronghold of the southern German money aristocracy?