Gourmetrestaurant JUWEL

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Bautzener Straße 74, 02681 Schirgiswalde-Kirschau, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Robert Hauptvogel
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | German | Local | Seafood | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Accommodation | Electric charging station | Private Parking | Private Room
Style: Bar | Casual | Elegant | Romantic | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

After nine years, Maître de Cuisine, Robert Hauptvogel, is taking a different approach and has now handed over the sceptre to Tobias Heldt. The 35-year-old chef is not a blank slate in the gastro scene, as he learned in the kitchens of Nils Henkel and Tim Raue. Tobias Heldt brings a new touch to the noble restaurant, but cherished habits were still allowed to remain. These also include the personal greeting from patron Petra Schumann, the greeting from the kitchen - arranged on a block of Upper Lusatian granite, the spooning of golden eggs or the pralines filled with kirsch as a farewell tribute to his own house and the region. Surrounded by shiny furniture in black and purple, you can choose between five and nine courses, the menu this season is titled "Amethyst", which, by the way, also adorns the table as a decoration. Heldt's aperitifs already announce the big picture as an enjoyable overture at the beginning: clear, sensual compositions with intense aromatics, cosmopolitan inspired and of high product quality. The egg is used to make a classic French braised oxtail ragout with nut butter foam, the chayote comes marinated with agave and elderberry as a freshness kick, a poultry roll with grape and green Tabasco, arranged as finger food, and a Mexican taco that reveals pickled sea bream and jalapeño in wonderful spiciness. Our highlight of the evening are actually the meat dishes of Taube including cauliflower, refined with vadouvan, as well as the lamb "Marrakech" with chickpeas and peppers, flanked by the chef's excellent deep, spicy jus. On well-attended evenings, you can finally feast on the much-praised cheese cart and have the delicacies of the Fromagerie Antony served at the table. We can still recommend the wine tour with restaurant manager Patrick Grunewald, who, as an experienced sommelier, confidently has the right companions ready for all courses.