Gourmetrestaurant Rüssel’s Landhaus

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Büdlicherbrück 1, 54426 Naurath (Wald), Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Harald Rüssel
Cooking: European | French | Gastronomic | German | Local | Vegetarian
Services: Accommodation | Electric charging station | Garden | Private Parking | Private Room | Terrace
Style: Casual | Exceptional setting | Romantic

Gault&Millau's review 2025

His passion for cooking is older than his passion for hunting. Harald Rüssel combines both together again and again in first-class dishes, which, how could it be otherwise, are served in his tastefully decorated country house surrounded by forest. Ruth Rüssel is responsible for the service and the wines, warm hospitality is the trump card here. The strengths of the kitchen lie in the balancing act between down-to-earthness and finesse, a well-thought-out melange of regional and national products and refined aromatic ideas. And Harald Rüssel masters them like the back of his hand. He greets generously with oyster marinated in whisky vinaigrette, a mosaic of mackerel with blue cheese cream and cranberry gel and a wheat cracker with truffle mayonnaise and Parmesan. Kohlrabi with trout, veal tongue and crayfish, all put together in balanced fine structures and aromatically defined to ascetic clarity. Served with a crustacean jus and rapeseed oil and elderberry vinaigrette, perfect for an entrée of a special class. The hunter and fish, trunk adds refreshing balls of melon to the confit char, a bit aromatically provoked by a buttermilk beurre blanc. But on the palate it goes wonderfully together like the first-class finely spicy sauce rouille, fennel pollen, the vegetable bean broth and the artichoke with firm cod. With the crispy fried heartbreads, the accompanying sloppy pea mousseline, spicy bacon foam, chanterelles and fermented mushrooms, Harald Rüssel doesn't quite shoot the bird yet. He only does this in the main course with the self-shot venison, which he serves as a tenderly juicy saddle of venison, braised knuckle of pork with venison liver and venison ham. In addition, mashed potatoes, pickled heart cherries and small onions filled with spruce top risotto. A taste hit! For dessert, the Moselle Riesling in ice cream form, ennobled with a chocolate ring and mace.