hæbel

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Paul-Roosen-Straße 31, 22767 Hamburg, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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Chef: Fabio Haebel
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | German | Local | Nordic | Vegetarian
Services: Electric charging station | Private Room
Style: Casual | Romantic | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

Fine dining in a good mood. Hard rock at a discreet volume, which inspires conversations at the table rather than makes them impossible. A small dining room that offers space for no more than 16 guests, but an almost unobstructed view of the open kitchen, where "head chef" Kevin Bürmann and his colleagues prepare the next courses. The service staff inform the guests about food and drinks in a relaxed manner and consistently fluctuate between "you" and "you". The white blankets on the tables are not perceived as a lofty formality, but as an expression of a festive event. French cuisine and Nordic cuisine, which focuses on sustainably produced regional food, are not seen as opposites at Haebel, but as complements, as "Nordic French cuisine" that should taste the best. A culinary experience in the middle of St. Pauli, just two streets away from the Reeperbahn. There are two "carte blanche" menus to choose from, the vegetarian "Flora" and "Fauna", where fish and meat are also served. Courses and order of dishes depend on the current market situation and can change daily. The wafer-thin, only marinated slices of German sturgeon, accompanied by buckwheat caviar, rest on some asparagus tips that peek out from under a hollandaise. The super-tender saddle of lamb is accompanied by some slender tart rhubarb spears, some pea puree with cream cheese. The tiny curd soufflé with marinated wild strawberries on strawberry ice cream, served with crackers with salt chocolate and mocha cream is also delicious. Respectable wine selection, also from organic and natural wines, well thought-out non-alcoholic beverage accompaniment.