Hirschen

Rating: 18
Author: Gault&Millau

Hauptstraße 69, 79295 Sulzburg, Germany

18/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Douce Steiner
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Local | Vegetarian
Services: Accommodation | Private Parking
Style: Casual | Romantic | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

Welcome to Douce Steiner's living room! Warm wood, old glass windows, the kitchen open and yet in the background. In the middle of the Markgräflerland, the Hirschen restaurant in Sulzburg inspires with its skilful combination of tradition and modernity - not only in the dining room, but also on the plate. Our Chef of the Year 2023 has perfected the art of combining modern influences with a traditional basis without losing authenticity. With a culinary experience that meets the highest standards, the Hirschen has established itself as a permanent fixture in Baden's top gastronomy, with a focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients and an extraordinary taste composition. Douce Steiner, who runs the Hirschen together with her husband Udo Weiler in Sulzburg, is still one of the few female top chefs in Germany. Her cuisine is characterized by a fine combination of classic French haute cuisine and regional Baden influences. The dishes are refined and down-to-earth at the same time, the ingredients of absolutely impeccable quality and freshness. Such as the Kampot pepper-flavoured langoustine royal on pink grapefruit, which proves to be the perfect accompaniment to the delicate aromas of the sea creature. The slightly bitter freshness of the citrus fruit brings a balance to the dish and wonderfully supports the intense taste of the crawfish. Douce Steiner often plays with these contrasts - as here in the use of sour components, which she skilfully combines with buttery-creamy aromas. Equally contrasting and at the same time harmonious is the combination of savory with truffle. The two ingredients, each of which has a strong presence in its own right, are subtly harmonized. The savory brings a spicy freshness, which is harmoniously complemented by the earthy and deep taste of the truffle. This is how it continues: Alsatian pigeon with bay leaf in spicy jus, served with the jellied essence and à part the leg on potato straw – the ultimate refined version of chicken nuggets with fries: Steiner's deliberate, finely balanced cuisine has about as much to do with fast food as her tender lobster with elderflower has to do with a crab salad from the supermarket shelf. The horseradish sorbet, another surprise of the evening, is almost reminiscent of a small water lily pond in the middle of the plate in its presentation - served with cucumbers and new almonds. The freshness of the cucumber and the slight spiciness of the horseradish let the palate gently tickle for minutes afterwards: wonderful! The evening is charmingly accompanied by the service. Man, or rather woman, takes time for the guests and convinces with warmth, competence and lived passion for gastronomy. There is no question that Micha Kiefer's wine recommendations are also perfect. In addition, Douce Steiner's daughter serves the dishes openly, radiantly and warmly. The sweet conclusion to the coffee comes in the form of tender tartlets, which clearly reflect the proximity to France. Der Hirschen with Douce Steiner and her team is undoubtedly one of the great addresses where Baden merges with France into a pleasurable whole - and with a culinary perfection that is second to none.