Hugos

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Budapester Straße 2A, 10787 Berlin, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Johannes Gehrich
Cooking: European | Gastronomic | International | Local | Mediterranean | Seafood | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Accommodation | Private Parking | Private Room
Style: Casual | Elegant | Romantic | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

The world seems to be in order, high up in the Intercontinental Berlin. The guest has a great view over the city after stepping out of the elevator and being warmly and perfectly welcomed. International audiences like to frequent the establishment on the 14th floor, which lives from Constance; it is no coincidence that chef Eberhard Lange has been with the company for so long that he seems to have grown firmly into the house. But that doesn't make it boring, because firstly Lange has ideas and secondly the wine list offers a whole lot of current discoveries. Nicolas Zimmermann, the restaurant manager, obviously knows a lot about drinks. The fact that some of the more mature wines on the Hugos menu are almost outrageously cheap, but some younger vintages seem quite expensive, makes things interesting. Where else can you get a whole bottle of 2018 late harvest from Markus Molitor for less than 50 euros? On the other hand, we find the 2020 Doosberg Riesling, a Großes Gewächs by Peter Jakob Kühn at 195 euros, a bit high-priced. By the way, Riesling goes well with the bread cream with fennel, but also cuts a fine figure with the excellent Loch Duart salmon with finger limes, buckwheat and kohlrabi. Even more fun, however, is the combination of potatoes, veal tongue, sour cream and excellent caviar (great potato taste). Cleverly composed and cooked to the point is the rock octopus with beetroot gazpacho, paprika and couscous. Meadow mushroom (with chickweed and pine nuts) shows variety in textures and aromas, the beef (A5 Kagoshima) is broken up as a tartare and fillet with radish and fermented pepper in its fat-rich fullness. The dessert is also sovereign to the hilt, which relies entirely on seasonal products with gariguette strawberries and rhubarb. Even better: Baba au Rhum with citrus fruits as a pre-dessert. There's no question about it: Hugos knows pretty well how to delight guests.