Jungborn

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Felkestraße 140, 55566 Bad Sobernheim, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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Location: Bad Sobernheim
Chef: Philipp Helzle
Cooking: French | German
Services: Accommodation, Electric charging station, Private Parking, Private Room, Terrace
Style: Bar, Casual, Romantic, With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

16/20

Remarkable Restaurant

It's nice that something like this still exists. A committed restaurateur couple, he in the kitchen and she in the service, who, each for themselves, put their stamp on the restaurant and take the guests on a journey through good taste. Petra Helzle directs the restaurant in the romantic sandstone vault, her husband Philipp is at the stove. His unpretentious kitchen style is characterized by a sovereign serenity that extends to the palate. Understanding dishes without long explanations, down-to-earthness packed into the best products, straightforward, prepared without creative excesses, overview of appearance and taste. Philipp Helzle's dishes reach the same destination via the back stairs: they simply taste good. Like the juicy beef fillet tartare served as a ring, peppered with capers and mozzarella, and infused in the middle with a spicy gazpacho. Simply good. Atlantic red mullet roasted to perfection, with a few variations of kohlrabi, and all poured with spicy fish stock. Meat is rarely found as perfectly fried as the slice of salt marsh lamb: pink through and through, juicy, without escaping meat juice. Classically served with beans and a sloppy sweet potato cream, which could also have been a mashed potato. The pâtisserie releases guests into the darkness of the province with an icy arrangement of raspberries, green Szechuan pepper, basmati and vermouth. The wine selection focuses on growths from the Nahe River, which flows past the front door.