Klassenzimmer

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Am Schulberg 2, 17258 Feldberger Seenlandschaft, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Daniel Schmidthaler
Cooking: Gastronomic | Local | Vegetarian
Services: Accommodation | Electric charging station | Private Parking | Terrace
Style: Casual | Romantic | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

If you drive over the gentle hills of the Feldberg Lake District, past deep blue lakes and ancient beech forests, the curious eater can quickly be infected by Fäviken fantasies. The "classroom" is not quite as far away as the legendary northern Swedish restaurant, but it is quite remote. This Mecklenburg seclusion also characterises Daniel Schmidthaler's cuisine. The native of Upper Austria cooks with what he gets here. Which usually means: exactly from here. And the result is more intuitive and spontaneous than in the many restaurants that plan their menus down to the last microgreen for months to come. In the classroom, in a pretty old brick school on a hill next to the village church, it sometimes starts with the fact that you don't get a menu card at all. Because: What the kitchen can work with is constantly changing. At the beginning there is a nice snack - with potato bread, spruce sprout butter and ravishing smoked lamb belly cold cuts and a lamb tea with lovage - the herd, which belongs to the caretaker, grazes in sight. Schmidthaler's Austrian roots are shown by the original start: a delicately confit char on spaghetti squash with pumpkin seed oil and roasted pumpkin seeds. On top of that, pickled slices of pumpkin and crispy fried fish skin. In addition, a finely sour sauce made from whey. Fine. Typical Schmidthaler is that he sometimes comes around the corner with something totally atypical. They would have liked to have been there to see how the team came up with the tomato course. It consists of a rich slice of the fleshy pineapple tomato, a lightly smoked, umami-rich tomato tartare, topped with potato straw and nut butter - but above all: rum raisins, as if this were a Kaiserschmarrn. But the schnapps sweetness supported the fruitiness of the tomato and contrasted the smoky note of the tartare. Even for such ideas, the journey over the many Mecklenburg mogul roads is worthwhile. Another weird idea: to season the prune cream with jalapeño in a sour and spicy way, which accompanies the very short-fried sturgeon with all kinds of beetroot and fennel salad. The main course is comparatively conventional: a quail breast and praline from the leg with herb coating, plus a mushroom tartare in a kohlrabi roulade. The accompanying dumpling of sour mushroom miso, which they prepare here themselves, could probably have been added to the jus right away. The beautiful dessert – a Deichkäseschmand parfait with blueberry sorbet and apple sauce – was topped by the delicious apricot beech with herb sorbet with coffee. The wine list is an interesting mix of classically grown and matured wines and natural wines, lots from Austria and Germany, all at reasonable prices. You can spend the night in the guest rooms on the first floor, get married in the church next door.