KOMU

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Hackenstraße 4, 80331 Munich, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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Location: Munich
Chef: Christoph Kunz
Cooking: European | Gastronomic | International | Vegetarian
Services: Private Room
Style: Elegant, With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

16/20

Remarkable Restaurant

Sandwiched between a vegetarian restaurant and a vegan patisserie, Christoph Kunz and his team cannot avoid paying homage to the megatrend of sustainability. This effort is already reflected in the guest room, which is equipped with a lot of ecologically valuable wood, and the now common, also economically advantageous absence of tablecloths, even in luxury gastronomy. By the way, "Komu" is a made-up name that is misleading, because many guests think that this is an Asian. Although all kinds of international influences are unmistakable with Kunz, the basis of his culinary art is European classics. During our visit, there was, among other things, rays, which often end up as unwanted bycatch in the fishing nets and then more and more often in gourmet menus. The meat was nice and firm and juicy, but a bit bland, which gave the beurre blanc, spiced up with mussel broth and verbena and enriched caviar, an effective appearance. During the meat course, which was boldly advertised as "Old Cow", we were confronted with the butter-tender slice of a seven-year-old, disused dairy cow. Although it would have been even better for the climate balance if the animal had not come from Galicia, but from Munich-Gauting, the menu price has to be justified somehow when you actually serve inexpensive meat, which in this case was accompanied by a simple jus and crunchy kai-lan ("Chinese broccoli") filled with meat ragout and leeks. Especially with the desserts, the kitchen gave free rein to its creativity: The caramelized cauliflower with salted lemon ice cream tasted distinctive, while the second dessert had to stand up to a massive curry attack. Why more and more pastry chefs today apparently refuse to use sugar would have to be questioned. The wine list is unspectacular for a restaurant of this class. Oh yes, one should not forget an extremely unusual amuse-bouche: popcorn foam with caviar topping. We made sure: No, we were not sitting in the Oktoberfest tent of Feinkost Käfer. And while we're at it: Whether schnitzel days can save top gastronomy is currently being tested in many places. But serving the lemon on the breading with caviar is certainly not a solution that will last – but simply chichi.