Kronenschlösschen

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Schlossergasse 1, 65347 Eltville am Rhein, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Roland Gorgosilich
Cooking: European | French | Gastronomic | German | International | Local | Vegan | Vegetarian
Services: Accommodation | Garden | Private Parking | Private Room | Terrace
Style: Exceptional setting | Romantic

Gault&Millau's review 2025

If you want to be a flagship, you need a storm-tested crew with whom you can sail close to the wind. Roland Gorgosilich has this team in his kitchen, plus Florian Richter, an excellent maître d'étre and sommelier in the restaurant, who leads in a refreshingly relaxed way through the world of his wines, hundreds of which are in one of the best-stocked German restaurant cellars. A culinary-vinological "belle alliance" that conjures up sovereign and unpretentiously buoyant culinary delights in the romantic-historic interior. For example, with the fried red shrimp, lightly washed by a sensational vinaigrette based on fennel and tarragon. As the double icing on the cake, aioli cream and fine fennel mousse. Roland Gorgosilich turns the Coquille Saint-Jacques, which is omnipresent in upscale gastronomy, into an aromatic revelation and sets tasty counterpoints with cauliflower, Piedmontese hazelnuts and young capers, which are dipped in a refined pine nut jus. A great combination with vibrant tension. Where the perfectly pink roasted back of pasture lamb takes centre stage, the reduced broth dynamized by aromatic force is not far away. This duo alone would be enough for a gold medal, as a classic encore the kitchen serves tenderly soft beans and savory foam. The fact that Gorgosilich goes one better deserves another accolade. In the main course, he brings juicy ternera gallega veal from Galicia, intense meat flavor with spicy-mild pressure, contrasted by Breton lobster and bracketed by a slightly smoky BBQ lobster bisque jus that has it all. Damn good! The fruity-sweet dessert almost comes across as a palate-refreshing relaxation, an excellent texture homage to strawberries with ragout, broth, meringue and verbena ice cream. Finally, a pancake filled with curd cream. After all, Roland Gorgosilich is Austrian with heart and soul.