Kulmeck Restaurant

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Kulmstraße 17, 17424 Heringsdorf, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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Chef: Tom Wickboldt
Cooking: International
Services: Private Parking | Private Room
Style: Casual | Romantic | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

High cuisine where Heringsdorf is at its highest: The modern restaurant of Rostock-born Tom Wickboldt and Manja Wulf in the white corner house on the Kulm offers creative dishes and subtle flavour combinations to rock music in a casual feel-good atmosphere. This is due to the good service, the relaxed ambience, but above all the menu (in addition to wonderful sourdough bread and a few signature dishes as add-ons – anyone who has ever eaten it is reluctant to do without the delicious tartare of Danish langoustine with Kalamansi gel, avocado cream and beef tea). The kitchen starts with two greetings from the chicken coop, which already show where the journey is heading: Wickboldt answers the question of whether chicken or egg came first with the latter of quail and a fluffy, truffled egg royal on spinach, followed by the mother animal Japanese-style fried with crispy skin chip in intense chicken stock. Banal ingredients? Perhaps, but in consistency, texture and craftsmanship as well as finely aromatic additions, it is a brilliant start that shows what creative cuisine is capable of without having to reach into the lobster and foie gras drawer. The impression remains throughout the entire menu – from butter-tender saddle of venison with porcini mushroom farce to creative pâtisserie – and encourages us to make a visit to the Kulmeck a recurring ritual as a culinary authority on Usedom that is as solid as it is lively and versatile.