La Société

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Kyffhäuserstraße 53, 50674 Cologne, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Leon Hofmockel
Cooking: European | French | Gastronomic | International | Vegetarian
Services: Terrace
Style: Bar | Casual | Elegant | Exceptional setting | Romantic | With children | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

If there is the ideal type of bistro with a cosy living room atmosphere, then La Société embodies it splendidly. The serenity that so often characterises French restaurants is lived here. Cooked with high standards, served with warmth, enjoyed with delight. Leon Hofmockel can be complex and does not make a science out of it. On the contrary, even the first amuse-bouche can make the aromas of fish and black pudding follow in the mouth in such a way that the brain can take note of everything and put it into context – great. And so it goes through the set menu, which always contains a vegetarian course, which in turn (young carrot with smoke cream) advertises ordering the whole menu in vegetarian style. But you would deprive yourself of the pleasure of the exactly overhearty jus with quail, which is almost too strong on its own, but in combination carries every bite. The acidity of the chimichurri in the sliced stalk of green asparagus gives the course the decisive kick. In front of it, the squid served as spaghetti – Hofmockel has beautiful ideas for great products that he can implement flawlessly. The wine list offers enough choice, but the sommelier succeeds in offering a wine accompaniment, leaving a selection that is hardly less apt and of high quality. So the guest leaves La Société, steps outside the door onto the street full of snack bars and a lively atmosphere and notices how much you have been taken out of everything for your time at La Société.