Le Cerf

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Kärcherstraße 11, 74639 Zweiflingen, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Boris Rommel
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Local | Vegetarian
Services: Accommodation | Electric charging station | Garden | Private Parking | Private Room | Terrace
Style: Bar | Casual | Elegant | Exceptional setting | Romantic | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

Even the greeting from the kitchen, placed on a gnarled vine, is a delicious welcome: pickled salmon, two kinds of lentils, veal with caviar. In the next course, we get to know and taste the tree tomato. Placed as a whole fruit in the middle of the table, we are allowed to eat it as a soup with a vinaigrette. In addition, a thaler of pureed crayfish and puffed rice. Our already high expectations are rising. Chef Boris Rommel serves almost every course personally and his passion for cooking is palpable. His appearance contrasts pleasantly with the very dignified, almost old-fashioned ambience. With his natural manner, it is a pleasure not only to watch him serve the food, but also to listen to him. They are simple, honest ingredients: the salted butter with chickweed. The cucumber on the fine sea bass carpaccio tastes like real cucumber. The soup with wild garlic is the pure teaching. The potato with quark and butter, a modern interpretation according to grandma's recipe with cream cheese sorbet and fresh garden herbs Frankfurt-style. The pigeon is presented under a glass bell before preparation and looks like a somewhat oversized green apple: The color is created by the lush herb coat under the skin. The next course is also a feast for the eyes in advance: The Mäusdorfer rooster is pushed up on the cart in a bloated boar. There it is cut up and a buttery soft brisket finds its place on our plate. In addition, asparagus and morels with a fine jus from a Vin Jaune from the Jura. As an intermediate course for dessert, a cart rolls up to our table again, this time with a Japanese scratch ice cream scraper. There is grated mint and watermelon granité, topped with rosé champagne and provided with a cap of yoghurt foam and green verbena dust. These are excellent, skilful combinations that we are allowed to discover this evening. The lemon sorbet of the Amalfi lemon with olive oil and basil rounds off the celebration in spring green. Rommel is responsible for both the gourmet restaurant Le Cerf and the entire gastronomy in the Friedrichsruhe. With respect for this great achievement, very happy and full, we step out into the night.