Maerz

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Kronenbergstraße 12, 74321 Bietigheim-Bissingen, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Benjamin Maerz
Cooking: German | Home cooking | International | Local | Seafood | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Accommodation | Electric charging station | Garden | Private Parking | Private Room | Terrace
Style: Casual | Elegant | Exceptional setting | Romantic | Wine Bar | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

The dining room in the Maerz restaurant in Bietigheim is almost reminiscent of a Swabian parlour - dark wood panelling and cosy niches - but skilfully combined with modern interiors. It is a warm, inviting atmosphere right from the start. Here, the Maerz brothers create a fine balance between local products and international flavours with their concept 'Homesickness - Wanderlust'. We embark on a culinary journey that is both familiar and surprising. The prelude with a mini version of the signature Maerz burger is simply a pleasure! Then the vegetarian and sustainable interpretation of the foie gras: instead of classic foie gras, mushroom in apple broth was served here - a fine, innovative idea that impresses both in terms of taste and text. And tastes delicious! There is also a natural cuvée from Claus Preisinger from Burgenland, whose mineral notes of lime and pebbles are an excellent complement. The local salmon trout tastes familiar and yet like a touch of Japan: the oyster egg ice cream and trout caviar, refined with spices from Asian cuisine, give the dish an interesting exoticism without losing its familiar down-to-earthness. Finally, the menu is rounded off with a Black Forest miso to a piece of flat iron dry-aged steak, which is lovingly reinterpreted with regional ingredients - a clever homage to international cuisine with a clear connection to home. But even if the dishes are a lot of fun and you always look forward to new combinations, every now and then it is sometimes difficult to appreciate the individual elements on the plate, as sometimes it is really "too much of a good thing". A well-curated selection of wines accompanies the menu - Christian Maerz is responsible for this, who also takes over most of the service and leads through the evening in an uncomplicated way. It is an evening in a cosy atmosphere that remains true to the concept of 'homesickness - wanderlust' from start to finish and dares to do a lot of new things - even if there is room for fine adjustments in some places.