Marburger Esszimmer

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Anneliese Pohl Allee 1, 35037 Marburg, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Denis Feix
Cooking: Gastronomic | International | Local | Seafood | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Accommodation | Garden | Private Parking | Private Room | Terrace
Style: Elegant | Romantic | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

To ensure that they start the evening relaxed, hostess Katrin Feix first asks the guests to have an aperitif in a small greenhouse, where some of the plants and herbs that can later be found in her husband's dishes are located. Small mini appetizers are served with the mood drink, which are eaten faster than the list of the many ingredients used. Then it goes a few steps away into a noble ambience with a view of the pottering kitchen. The tastefully furnished guest room, bathed in a subdued light, extremely smooth white tablecloths without creases on the tables. Table culture at its best, that must also be mentioned. Denis Feix offers a menu in large and small variants. However, without a meat course. If you feel like it, you can choose from the extra menu veal tongue or Wagyu beef. At a surcharge of 69 euros each. The serving by the glass is also full throttle, with 22 euros for a 0.1 sip of Sauvignon Blanc from the Sattlerhof in Styria. On the other hand, the water is included in the menu price, at least. But let's look at the kitchen. Denis Feix is a master of culinary detail, one who always finds "the right tone" in the filigree of his multifaceted dishes. It starts with a potpourri of dried, flamed, marinated and fresh tomatoes from his own cultivation, with glazed, flavorful Ama Ebi prawns, ice cream made from white tomato essence, anchovy smoke cream and poured basil oil arranged to create an aromatic overall picture with depth. The idea of serving fennel cooked in vacuum and seasoned with thyme and anise with puffed pork skin in a mussel broth in which Lardo has been incorporated is daring, but great. Just like the appearance of the plaice fillet, often spurned in gourmet gastronomy, which Denis Feix pulls into the aromatic field of tension salty, fruity-lemon, earthy and juicy with North Sea crabs, salted lemon jam, sea fennel and pistachio cream. Then wonderfully aromatic porcini mushrooms on a risotto made from sunflower seeds, refined with Parmesan and carrot green pesto, washed with porcini mushroom foam. In the main course, Tristan langoustine, grilled and drizzled with finely spicy crustacean oil, sweet-sour marinated melon balls, roasted white sesame seeds and coconut gel as a counterpoint. Finally, a no-frills dessert with a plum tart, port wine sabayon, meadowsweet buttercream and fermented pepper.