Meierei Dirk Luther

Rating: 18
Author: Gault&Millau

Uferstraße 1, 24960 Glücksburg (Ostsee), Germany

18/20
Prestige Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Dirk Luther
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Local | Seafood
Services: Accommodation | Electric charging station | Private Parking | Terrace
Style: Bar | Exceptional setting | Romantic | With family

Gault&Millau's review 2025

Over there, behind the Flensburg Fjord, there is already Denmark – close enough to bring the joy of enjoyment and purchasing power to the northern edge of the republic. Far enough away not to disturb the almost insular seclusion of the luxury hotel Alter Meierhof. You quickly get used to the fact that guests in bathrobes sometimes flop past in front of the windows of his gourmet restaurant. A delicious contrast to the great, attentive service, who still wears a suit here. Dirk Luther has made this remote corner the best restaurant in Schleswig-Holstein; and apparently it suits him very well that he doesn't have to set trends or stage a show here. His French-influenced cuisine is wonderfully timeless. And when you ask him if he is still in a position himself, he looks as surprised as if he were thinking: Where else? The first thing that strikes you is a deep sensitivity to the supposed standards: the apple vinaigrette on the poached oyster – not a touch too sour. The sherry espuma on the calf's head ragoût with curdled egg yolk – actually just a vinous cloud. And these are only the smaller of the various kitchen greetings. Luther gains finesse even from an ingredient like glasswort. It was served here as a creamy sauce with the slice of scallop, generously topped with poached oysters and caviar. Or the coarse-sounding combination of chorizo and watercress: as ragoût and foam, surprisingly suitable accompaniments to a precisely baked heartbreak of veal. The Hamburg native is not a pronounced regionalist. But he uses his contacts in Denmark to be able to offer first-class seafood. The immensely large, only glassy fried langoustine with a very tender "Tom Kha" of coconut milk and lemongrass was sensational. Instead of the chili, the kitchen put a smoky chutney of paprika. Without sauces, they basically only serve the soups here. On most plates, they form the center of taste, often as a duo. And that never gets boring, because Dirk Luther draws from a huge repertoire: a spring-like elderberry beurre blanc with turbot with green asparagus and marinated gooseberries. With the cod, an autumnal "overripe" foam of vin jaune, very harmoniously enriched with hazelnut cream. A great peace emanates from this cuisine. You leave the dairy with the feeling that you would like to eat like this every day - and with a taste on your tongue. For us, it was that of wild strawberries from the main dessert. A supposedly simple combination of the fruits with white chocolate, but so intense that you could still feel it after half an hour. Shortly after our visit, the Alter Meierhof closed for a major renovation. It is scheduled to continue in spring 2025.