Merkles

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Hauptstraße 2, 79346 Endingen am Kaiserstuhl, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Tom Merkle | Thomas Engler
Cooking: Gastronomic | International | Local | Vegetarian
Services: Garden | Private Parking | Terrace
Style: Bar | Casual | Exceptional setting | Romantic | With children | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

The third-year apprentice takes his exam the week after our visit and chef Thomas Engler is on a rock holiday in Wacken. And what does Tom Merkle do? He holds back and assists his four trainees. For three days, he leaves the gourmet restaurant to the youngsters, looks behind the scenes to make sure nothing burns and holds the tray while the team serves. This is sovereign and, in our opinion, worthy of all honour. The fact that service and timing suffer in the process, empty plates are only removed on request and empty glasses are only sporadically refilled: a gift. Much more important is the pride in the eyes of the young chefs, whose red faces testify to the tension of taking responsibility. But the chef doesn't trust for nothing: where a seven- or eight-course menu is usually served in two modern parlours in the pretty wine village of Endingen behind the entrance through the lively new parish inn, this time there are five, and at a special price. The motto of the kitchen "spice-oriented / spicy / aromas / creative" also adorns the trainee menu. And that can certainly be seen and tasted - whether it's sea bream roasted on the skin with tartare, essence from the Kaiserstuhl organic tomato or apricot variations: Let's assume that when the chef and the patron are at the stove, the roles are reversed again and experience and creative impulses are added to what we have learned, then we are happy to confirm the three red toques - and are not worried about the next generation and the kitchen quality at Merkles. The wine list is of course opulent and regionally grounded - how different could and should it be at the Kaiserstuhl?