[mod] by Sven Nöthel

Rating: 14
Author: Gault&Millau

Grafschafter Straße 197A, 47199 Duisburg, Germany

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

BOOK

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Sven Nöthel | Timo Baaske
Cooking: European | Gastronomic | International | Local | Seafood | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Accommodation | Garden | Private Parking | Private Room | Terrace
Style: Casual | Elegant | Exceptional setting | Romantic | With children | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

The rural spot on which Sven Nöthel's converted cowshed is located has as little to do with the image of Duisburg as Tatort inspector Horst Schimanski has to do with the CIA. On his plates, Nöthel avoids current clichés. Instead, his penchant for regional products is noticeable. The snack – a wooden square with tomato jam, herb cream, leek oil, supplemented by wafer-thin slices of fluffy scrambled eggs, duck breast ham and pickled turnips – invites you to mix and grab hearty bites. A participatory dish. Excitement and variety are created by combinations such as that of mild chicken and strong, chocolate-seasoned sauce, which is accompanied by pickled cherries filled with offal. It is the cheese course and the dessert that impressively encapsulate Nöthel's concept: goat's cheese with pumpernickel, au gratin and with mild cream, framed by sweetness, an intelligent spooning pleasure, which is in no way inferior to the expressly not too sweet dessert with nut butter rice, peach and smoky notes. A trip to Duisburg's green that is worth it.