Mühle

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Unterer Mühlenweg 13, 79859 Schluchsee, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Fabian Obergfell
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | International | Japanese | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Accommodation | Electric charging station | Private Parking | Terrace
Style: Casual | Exceptional setting | Romantic | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

The summer fairy tale has burst for the time being. On the pitch as well as in the weather. Rain and cold dominate the days at the beginning of July, when we crawl into Niclas Nussbaumer's mill at Schluchsee in the Black Forest. Here you can get your mind off things anyway, as the chef – despite all the striving for harmony in his compositions – is also looking for new approaches to (neo-)classical products, when he gives rich Japanese Wagyu tartare with crispy algae an iodine saltiness or gives the melting of raw scallops with corali ice cream and gooseberry broth an aromatic twist. The kitchen team meets the high-quality shopping basket with craftsmanship. Peas, chanterelles or artichokes, sunflower seed, pumpernickel or algae cream: all ingredients – sometimes with Japanese borrowings – are precisely processed so that their own tastes and textures frame the central elements on the plate in the best possible way, in this case waxy salmon trout, firm-fleshed monkfish or tender saddle of lamb. Nussbaumer's dishes are declined, smoothly polished down to the last detail, the chef's striving for harmony and perfection from the amuses bouches to the petit fours is recognizable. Often his dishes are even so closely intertwined that there is little room for free tasting. Provocative or polarizing compositions are not part of the repertoire of the kitchen, perhaps that's why the dishes, for all their delicacy and creativity, also seem to be expected in terms of taste – a safe bank of enjoyment, so to speak. Towards the top: everything open.