Mural

Rating: 14
Author: Gault&Millau

Hotterstraße 12, 80331 Munich, Germany

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Felix Adebahr
Cooking: European | German | Vegan | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Garden | Private Room | Terrace
Style: Casual | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

Urban cuisine, of course also with a vegan option, in the former substation: screed on the floor, tables made of square steel tubing, tiles on the walls – a rough industrial look dominates next to the graffiti museum. The kitchen is dominated by Joshua Leise, who is considered the shooting star of Munich's gastro scene. Like many chefs of the younger generation, the late twenties stands for a style of minimal intervention. The products, preferably from regional and organic origin, should not lose their "natural" character through too much manipulation – and Leise celebrates this, for example with a minimally cooked Schliersee lake trout on a natural tomato slice. Period. Chutzpah is part of declaring a "potato risotto" based on the run-of-the-mill variety Annabelle, accompanied by radish slices, to be an example of sustainable cooking - it's a pity that no rice for real risotto is yet growing in this country. For the main course, a slice of Mangalica woolly pig served with beetroot cream and some jus. Everything is purist and good, but this type of preparation hardly forgives even the smallest inaccuracies in the kitchen - all the more important the quality of the victuals used. Water is thankfully billed in the form of a water flat rate, the wine list, which is lavishly stocked with more than 1000 items, offers a number of natural wines, which, however, are not listed. If you don't want to experience a surprise, you should ask.