OPUS V

Rating: 18
Author: Gault&Millau

O5 12, 68161 Mannheim, Germany

18/20
Prestige Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Dominik Paul
Cooking: Gastronomic | International | Japanese | Local
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Private Room | Terrace
Style: Casual

Gault&Millau's review 2025

What would be the right setting or what could the stage look like for a kitchen that is above any, almost any criticism? A matter of taste. In the attic of the Engelhorn department store, which is known above all for its range of luxury brands, the decision has been made for a Scandinavian-inspired purism and the gourmet restaurant with bare tables and simple interior has been given the ambience of the executive canteen of a Swedish furniture store. The friendly service appears in dreary black, from a fashion house of the Engelhorn class one might expect a little more chic from the staff. On the other hand, Dominik Paul and his team really hit the drum. Far away from uncomplicated cuisine, the most sophisticated craftsmanship is celebrated here, which knocks again and again at the door of high art. Chef Paul arranges his dishes with many Japanese components, which meet harmoniously or contrapuntally in an aromatic intersection. Both have their charm. He calls the Irish oyster decorated with finger algae and fermented radish leaves, which sits on a jellied crustacean essence, poured with coriander vinaigrette, which has been refined with ginger oil, culinary attunement. Multifaceted aromas, which nevertheless leave the fine taste of the oysters to the main role. Or the mini doughnut filled with calf's head and veal cheeks, crowned by a cap of chili crème fraîche, decorated with oxalis, chervil, frisée salad and rounded off with fruity Piment d'Espelette. Great clarity and calmness in the tartare of pike-perch, pickled in spicy kombu algae, washed by a slightly sparkling vinaigrette based on white kimchi. The two slices of hamachi, which hung in the "dry-aged cupboard" for a week, were perfect in a firm consistency, plus aroma nuances from a slightly sour pickled asparagus from last season, Tibetan caviar and spicy ponzu. As a sweet contrast, the honey essence, caught by the refreshing coolness of the coconut sorbet. Insanely good. Whether you can taste the hand-cut tartare remains to be seen. In any case, the neatly diced beef trumped with an intense, juicy taste, accompanied by the creamy and slightly nutty taste of the caviar from the Tibetan highlands, with which it was generously covered. In addition, some miso, wasabi cream for a touch of spiciness and a tonka bean vinaigrette with a dynamizing force. In the fish course, the turbot "aged" in the maturing cabinet, the snow-white slice was perfectly juicy to the bite, served in an unobtrusively sour miso vinaigrette. In addition, peas in slightly minty-aromatic shiso vinaigrette, celery cream and a frothy dashi beurre blanc. Everything is clearly concentrated in terms of taste. In the main course, wonderfully pink roasted saddle of venison on an onion cream, garnished with wafer-thin Italian lardo, and washed by a deep, very dense sauce rouennaise. As an addition, cream flavored with liquorice is drizzled into the sauce. A great idea that brings noticeable softness to the aromatic depth. Last highlight, according to the templates, as expected, the dessert. Grilled watermelon slices, tangy refined with a little grapefruit, arranged with sorbet of watermelon, coconut espuma and a freshness kick of frozen buttermilk mint pearls. Champions League!