pankratz

Rating: 14
Author: Gault&Millau

Lindenplatz 6, 55129 Mainz, Germany

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

BOOK

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Paul Schmiel
Cooking: German | Local
Services: Terrace
Style: Casual | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

Hechtsheim is a tranquil district of the state capital Mainz, an idyllic province with a village character. The ideal environment for the Pankratiushof, which has developed from a simple farm into a small culinary empire with a farm shop, bakery, manufactory and, of course, the restaurant. In the morning, an extensive breakfast is served in a purist ambience with an open kitchen, and in the evening the menu with surprise effects. Because chef Paul Schmiel only decides what goes on the plates in the morning. But as sure as the Amen in the church, the dishes are prepared from regional and seasonal products. Without fashionable experimentation, straightforwardly simple and in terms of taste concentrated to the point. To start with, a potpourri of small arrangements such as fried savoy cabbage chips, sourdough pizza topped with zucchini, Jerusalem artichoke flowers fried in beer batter and a chicken egg cooked in the shell, topped with regional aubergine and homemade ricotta. The juicy salmon trout from the Wisper Valley is then served in a finely spicy fish sauce, refreshingly winged with watermelon and sorrel. After the rather unagitated duet of homemade mozzarella and beetroot, the trout grilled on an open fire is served again in beurre blanc with grilled chard and nasturtiums. In addition to tarragon sauce and onions, the cress also accompanies the potatoes from our own cultivation. The guinea fowl in the main course comme il faut, juicy and aromatic, washed by a deep jus based on the roasted bones and accompanied by paprika grilled in the skin. At the end of a bite-by-bite journey through down-to-earth worlds of taste, the dessert with mirabelle plum cold bowl and the best milk ice cream with figs.