Porte Neuf

Rating: 14
Author: Gault&Millau

Woldemarstraße 9, 32756 Detmold, Germany

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Daniel C. Fischer
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | International | Seafood | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Terrace
Style: Casual | Romantic | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

After stints in South Baden, Dublin, Vienna and South Tyrol, Daniel C. Fischer opened his own restaurant in a former corner pub in 2022, which is undoubtedly an enrichment for Detmold. Behind the door with the number 9 (hence the restaurant name, of course also with reference to the orientation of the kitchen) is a modern, charming guest room in black and brown tones, you dine at bare black wooden tables and - where else can you find that - real candlelight. The menu in four or six courses can be supplemented by extras, but is also delightful without them: Fischer shows that he has a good sense for fine, even exotically inspired flavor combinations, texturally (a crunch element is added almost everywhere), sensorially and last but not least visually, the plates such as gyoza of oyster mushroom in dashi with radish or Bresse pigeon with spinach, beetroot and amaranth are immaculate, much of which is provided with the final accent by the chef at the table. The dessert called "Milky Way" with creamy Korean rice wine, an Ivoire ganache, chestnuts, umeboshi and yuzu deserves extra praise, and the overall context makes the two toques blush joyfully this year – all this can go on like this, Fischer can still be trusted with a lot.