Pur

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Hintereck 1, 83471 Berchtesgaden, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Ulrich Heimann
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | International | Local | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Accommodation | Private Parking | Private Room | Terrace
Style: Romantic

Gault&Millau's review 2025

The Kempinski Hotel inspires with its special location, not least with the fantastic panoramic view of the many peaks high above Berchtesgaden. The paradise has a difficult historical heritage: the greats of the Third Reich resided in the neighbourhood - but the hotel also deals with this well and consciously. Back to the location: a luxurious multidimensional hideaway in a class of its own. Ulrich Heimann has been top chef here for 19 years. The native of the Black Forest offers a nice variety of dishes and convinces together with his team. The Pur is a kind of private room with a pleasantly restrained charisma. The furnishings are almost Nordic reduced - perhaps this impression is also due to the Norwegian host, who leads through the evening with an impressive presence. One would like to listen to Christian Sundt-Johannesen for much longer, if it weren't for the generous amuse-bouche array with the well-known snack board - this time equipped with a juicy melting piece of pork belly, among other things - demanding our attention. A fresh Berchtesgadener Hell is poured with it. With the official start to the menu, it becomes regional again. The carpaccio of Bavarian venison was of an engaging tenderness, the scallop was served with quince, which set a delicately fruity accent. And if we think of Tyrol historically, there are reminiscences from more southern valleys with a Schlutzkrapfen, here in a variant with Tyrolean prawns. The challans duck breast with pearl onion also offered a multi-layered parsley root and a beautiful autumnal chestnut. The Taleggio cheese convinced with black walnut and offered a winning palate combination with the slight sourness of the balsamic fig. Finally, the mandarin with ginger, honey and rooibos tea showed a delicate range of sweet delights. The wine accompaniment was comprehensive, sometimes surprising – with discoveries from Austria or Italy – and complemented the menu with perfect classics.