Restaurant Kuhlemann

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Freyung 39, 92660 Neustadt an der Waldnaab, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Adrian Kuhlemann
Cooking: European | French | German | Home cooking | Vegetarian
Services: Accommodation | Electric charging station | Garden | Private Parking | Private Room
Style: Casual | Elegant | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

The Kuhlemann restaurant in Neustadt an der Waldnaab may be "off the beaten track", as the house self-deprecatingly addresses the somewhat peripheral location in the north of the Bavarian Upper Palatinate. But there is nothing provincial here, starting with the simple, elegant guest room, which does not deny the heavy, dark-stained oak planks of the hotel restaurant of the traditional Grader hostel that was formerly located here, to the unobtrusive, professional service and the cuisine, whose style is characterized by a pleasant balance between French classics and regionally grounded creativity. Adrian Kuhlemann's chef's jacket still bore the lettering of Vincent Klink's "Wielandshöhe" when we visited, where he stood at the stove for a while, and indeed there is something here reminiscent of the unpretentious, refined bourgeois cuisine of the Stuttgart old master, who has already become a legend. Even the warm celery drink offered as a "mouth cleaner", on a good German "throat cleaner", was a model of aromatic density and depth of taste. The pattern continued especially with the sauces, a finely sour choron sauce with baked aubergine, an unobtrusive paprika reduction with pickled char and the spicy elderberry hollandaise along with sweet parsley broth with sturgeon, an underestimated fish that cuts a fine figure not only smoked. Finally, a sensational blackberry jus, which lifted a flawlessly cooked and truly lavishly sized slice of Upper Palatinate venison into a new dimension. There is also a knife, while strangely enough you are otherwise only supplied with a fork and spoon. Kuhlemann's creations are always focused and do not fray in a confusing variety of exotic aromatics and textures. If work were still being done on the somewhat underexposed side dishes and the abundantly simple dessert, three red toques would be within reach. The wine list sets accents for organic and "natural" crescences. But no one here is bothered if you only treat yourself to a cool pale beer from the regional brewery Floss. Unfortunately, only from the bottle.