Schwarzer Adler

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Badbergstraße 23, 79235 Vogtsburg im Kaiserstuhl, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Konstantin Keller | Christian Baur
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Seafood | Vegetarian
Services: Accommodation | Electric charging station | Private Parking | Terrace
Style: Elegant | Romantic | With children | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

When Germany's largest Burgundy merchant – and at the same time one of the best German wineries – invites you to the table, it's clear that reading the wine list takes time. It comes to the table in oversized A3 format and mighty thick – not because it contains such large letters, but because there are such large bouteilles, which cavort here in four-digit numbers in very small letters. As are the extremely hospitably calculated prices, by the way. The oenological offer is supervised by Melanie Wagner in a highly competent manner – it is not a mistake to rely entirely on her feeling for the individual guest when making the selection. The water flat rate of six euros is also a nice example of an approachable calculation that leaves more room for one more bottle or the house's large poultry specialities. And the guests grab it – and for good reason. The cultivated tradition of the house as well as the nearby France allow goose foie gras and frog legs to find their immovable place in the large à la carte selection. If that scares you off, you can confidently stay at home, because the Schwarzer Adler is actually a completely apolitical haven of pure enjoyment, to which everything else is subordinated. So why punish what is served here dripping with mindfulness? On the contrary: Just like here, you first have to be able to cook and serve and take care of your guests: It's Sunday lunchtime, the patron greets you at the table and chats - ideal world at its best, the Blanc de Blancs Grande Cuvée Brut Nature 2017 from our own vineyard gets in the mood, the day dawns and we sink into the oasis of well-being, only interrupted by perfect service and classic French courses with South Baden local color, which are worthy of all honor. Like the oxheart tomato, watermelon and juniper in clear tomato juice under white tomato foam with confit lobster, or the roasted catfish with a cracking, spicy crust and finely flaked meat, black fermented garlic and goat's cheese in tomato crumbs and broth. Formidable! The jellied consommée of pork chin with a large nock of Imperial caviar, à part in the foam with the praline from the tail: Nose to tail in its purest form. The grilled red shrimp in a strong, yet citrusy nage with mild spiciness, reintegrated by grated cocoa bean, in which edamame, mini peppers and puffed rice stands for classic 2.0 at the Schwarzer Adler, whose cuisine has increased even more. The saucière remains at the table with the salty, crusty saddle of lamb from the Wanderschäferei Stotz, salpicon of lamb belly with Burgundy snails and ricotta watercress ravioli - and despite the hefty portions, we can't help but refill what also applies to the perfectly matured 85 Château Coudert Saint-Emilion Grand Cru: We are lucky. Kaiserstuhl berries with strawberry ganache flow from the tipped chocolate pot as a sweet finish, accompanied by yoghurt ice cream with butterfly cake. The sun mercifully sinks over the Kaiserstuhl vines, the child disappears into the pâtisserie with Master Keller and we wish the world were always as perfect, carefree, enjoyable and wine-filled as it is here.