Schwarzgold

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Emscherallee 11, 44369 Dortmund, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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Chef: Pierre Beckerling
Cooking: European | Gastronomic | Local | Seafood | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Garden | Private Parking | Private Room
Style: Elegant | Exceptional setting | Romantic | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

This restaurant can only be located in the Ruhr area. Where black gold used to play the main role - in the Hansa coking plant, more precisely in its gas freezer. It is a modest nine meters to the ceiling, the location breathes the dust of the last century and is worth a visit alone. All the nicer that Pierre Beckerling, who was inspired by Japanese culture at his former place of work, now cooks "straight outta Ruhrpott" - with a bow not only to the German buddies, but also to the guest workers from Poland, Italy or Turkey. It has only become a little more noble since the chimneys smoked here: black armchairs, tables with gold-colored leather, everywhere it shimmers gold. The cuisine is also brilliant – not only on the plate, but also when it comes to sourcing the products that Beckerling processes: around 80% come from the immediate surrounding area, some even directly from the coking plant site, such as vegetables or fish that are bred there. The menu begins – how could it be otherwise – with a Dortmund currywurst, which presents itself here as a veal praline carefully flavoured with curry with cream cheese mousse in miso. The Scottish Highland cattle comes from Steinfurt, which is only slaughtered after three years on the pasture and then spends some time in the maturing room before it is processed into an intensely strong intermediate course in Schwarzgold with N25 caviar, smoked eel, radish and bacon. Carrier pigeons have always existed here, as has rabbit breeding. Both protagonists can also be found from time to time in the menu, which changes every six weeks, and for dessert there is a "mixed bag without liquorice" from the candy shop kiosk. Great gourmet cinema with a bow to the history and taste of today. If you can, this should be your dinner address for tomorrow - it's worth it! Small exception: The wine list is - very Ruhrpott-like - more for beer drinkers. But that can still change.