Storstad

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Goliathstraße 4, 93047 Regensburg, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Josef Weig
Cooking: Asian | European | Gastronomic | German | Vegetarian
Services: Private Room | Terrace
Style: Casual | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

In Regensburg, Anton Schmaus, personal chef of the German national football team, maintains a small gastro armada. In addition to a famous sushi bar, a wine concept store and a casual dining restaurant with a club atmosphere, the flagship is the gourmet restaurant Storstad. The name, which means "big city" in Swedish, refers to Schmaus' years of apprenticeship and travel, which also led him to Stockholm. However, only the discreetly stylish interior of the restaurant in the attic of an old town house with a premium view of Regensburg Cathedral presents itself with a Nordic touch. Schmaus and his team around the chef de cuisine, Josef Weig, conjure up Euro-Asian fusion cuisine par excellence on the plates. But where others may only experiment with fashion, Schmaus' creative compositions are the icing on the cake. And the exotic preparations and spice blends with enigmatic names such as dashi, kosho, tentsuyu or togarashi as well as ingredients such as edamame (unripe harvested soybeans) and prunes (togarashi) always set surprising accents without disavowing the main product. Even Bavarian classics such as saddle of venison are gently pushed in a BBQ direction with a jus mixed with smoked kombuessig, while 50-year-old balsamic vinegar gives the dough base of a chocolate ganache tartlet a spicy kick. The crossover concept runs consistently through the entire rich menu, from the sushi-style amuse-bouches to the not-so-sweet bouncers. In addition, a real Turkish mocha, instead of the notorious espresso. The service is as casual as it is competent, and when the cuddly patron himself enters the dining room to pour a brew and talk shop a little about football, there is even an inn atmosphere. Even if landlords may not like to hear it: a cool light beer goes best with a Euro-Asian menu. But the Château de Pibarnon from the Bandol appellation on the Côte d'Azur, which was served with venison by the glass at a fair price, was not bad either.