taku

Rating: 14
Author: Gault&Millau

Trankgasse 1, 50667 Cologne, Germany

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

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1 PHOTOS

Chef: Mirko Gaul
Cooking: Asian | European | Gastronomic | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Accommodation | Private Parking | Private Room
Style: Elegant | Romantic

Gault&Millau's review 2025

On the website of the Taku restaurant in the Excelsior Hotel Ernst there is the word East Asian, and you can read about inspirations from Bangkok, Hong Kong and Tokyo. But while nowadays almost every second German chef cooks with soy and yuzu, the additions by chef Mirko Gaul seem downright subtle. He enriched the smoked sea bass with potatoes, miso and caviar, the Dutch hamachi was supplemented with marinated cucumber slices and a broth of dashi and amalfi lemon. The most Asian course of our visit combined a great dumpling of challans duck with chili and citrus. Speaking of which: The combination of acidity and precisely timed spiciness ran like a red thread through the menu. It was also noticeable in the entrecôte from Wipperfürther Wagyu and was even present in the strawberry dessert. The cheerful sommelier had good recommendations ready, and the cocktail recommended for the aperitif also tasted good, but was on the bill at 24.50 euros. Luxury hotel rate!